J.Crew, what if you just go to their store, you know that this company has a problem.

When I tried on the fourth J.Crew, I noticed that a small sign explains the big problems that plagued J.Crew and many similar companies. It is on the second floor of the Rockefeller Center Mall with a pair of men's trousers on the table. These khaki twill pants are also available ($68) - maybe a bit hard, but not so hopeless. The sign next to the trousers has a different value proposition.

J.Crew at the 30 Rockefeller Plaza store, photo copyright Stefania Curto / The New York Times

It says: "No-Brainers" (required items that don't require brains). It’s a very high-pitched tone, telling customers that you know fashion more than they do. Grab one or two from the pants here, and then take a few shirts on the side (there is also a "No-Brainers" sign on the table). When you buy clothes, don't spend a minute thinking about it!

See the problem? Maybe I am an extreme counter-brainer, thinking very carefully when buying things. But now consumers are more knowledgeable and curious than ever before. Putting a counter with the general trend here, even if it is casually placed, also shows that the business lacks imagination. This also shows that when consumers have a large selection and a pair of eye, the business is worried that their products will not be selected.

769 Madison Avenue, photo copyright Stefania Curto / The New York Times

“No-Brainer” is the language of discount retailers, and J.Crew has been striking a clear line with this category for the past 10 years. With a far-sighted creative architect – Jenna Lyons for women, Frank Muytjens for men – and smart marketing, J.Crew did it. In the beginning of 2011, the menswear business was just emerging, Michelle Obama publicly supported the brand, and J.Crew grew through the production of high-end fashion civilian versions.

Now J.Crew is in a period of turmoil. Lyons and Muytjens have resigned in recent months (squeezed away?), the company's share price plummeted. Even so, how about its clothes? I visited five J.Crew and tried to find out what was causing the company's predicament, or further, how these difficulties are reflected in the clothes.

At the women's clothing store in Columbus Circle, I found a piece of clothing that seems to outline the situation: an off-the-shoulder blue and white shirt top, waist, and a small pattern of green beads on the front placket. The US dollar, in addition to a bag of beads, although you do not know how to make this dress worse.) It is neither luxurious nor affordable, like a printed cotton garment that is in the wrong condition.

This season, many women's wear is the type of bluff, with a few exceptions: a pair of raffia fiber colorful shoe tow ($88), suitable for wearing Tulum in Mexico, and a loose summer dress, with The Thomas Mason shirt brand is co-produced and can be worn in Savannah, Ga., to revisit Angel Emily ($298). Basically, in addition to the hot and bright colors, J.Crew's half of the women's dresses are surprisingly empty, non-directional, neither refined nor eye-catching.

234 West Street, Williamsburg, photo copyright Stefania Curto / The New York Times

Lyons used to be very good at grasping this balance, but this technique is now everywhere and not so indispensable. Today our fashion appeal is more diverse than it was a decade ago. For the first wave of Internet-driven fashion lovers, J.Crew's iterative process is perfect, as long as it is a little smarter and more modern than Other middle-central brands. But now it can't be done. Once the Internet makes it easy for people to see more, learn more, and buy more on a larger scale, J.Crew is outdated. For those who pay close attention to fashion, it moves too slowly, and for those who really want to buy "no-brainer" products, it is a bit too rich.

Go back to the topic of clothes piles. In the Rockefeller Center and the Columbus Circle, piles of trousers that are a few inches high are piled up in the retail industry. Heap piles, especially the piles of clothes of different colors and patterns, indicate indifference, and the value of any of them is very low. Can hide in the pile of clothes, I am afraid there is no selling point.

In this regard, J.Crew's solution is to open up an independent space, allowing clothes to breathe more space, at least in men's clothing. There are two stores in the TriBeCa area: Ludlow Shop, which specializes in suits and the Liquor Store. When it opened in 2008, it was very aggressive. It transformed the men's shopping space into a more simple style, but retained the new temperament.

235 West Broadway, photo copyright Stefania Curto / The New York Times

Although these stores have their own limitations, they retain some kind of imagination that allows J.Crew to upgrade from mid-range to mid-to-high-end brands. When Liquor Store first opened, there was a kind of eye-opening attitude, which is now basically gone. Instead, it is a basic franchise store with limited vision, not only J.Crew, but also Izod, Norse Projects, Vans, etc. - a brand that aims to provide a simple match.

The lights here are low and the space is cramped. Once upon a time, you might think that there is a baby here, but now it feels messy - although I found a baby: a strong military-style navy jacket from FDMTL ($483), exactly, it hangs at the main entrance Those on the hooks behind the stitching shirt.

99 Prince Street, picture copyright Stefania Curto / The New York Times

In the J.Crews store I have been to, Ludlow Shop is the most humanized, probably because its idea is the narrowest, even the suit is very narrow. All clothes are almost the same thin cut, available in a variety of fabrics (selected wool, jacket $425, pants $225). The company's higher-end products are here, such as the humble and lovely all-white shawl-neck gown ($525).

It is also here, the first time I found a favorite pink pink cotton trousers, full of energy and a bit of awkwardness - this is the ideal design of J.Crew, softening the edge of elegant creativity, making people more acceptable. In the end, I bought a mint green, because I saw it four times in a row, killing my will. Even so, I hope I am still thinking about it.

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